Welcoming spring in Ueno, Tokyo (A mini guide)

It was late February when we arrived in Tokyo but temperatures were already in full spring mode. On the street there still was a sense of normalcy despite the spread of the Coronavirus that was in the early stages of a pandemic. At that time we still felt safe and had no idea what was yet to come…

However, since my first visit in 2014 it’s been love at first sight between me and Tokyo. I’ve seen the hustle and bustle of Shinjuku and Shibuya and was ready for a more laid-back experience. This time we stayed in Ueno which turned out to be the perfect neighbourhood if you’re looking for a more cultural side of Tokyo!

Ueno Station is the main transportation hub from where you can easily reach other parts of Tokyo. But it’s the variety of open-air markets, restaurant and izakayas (Japanese pubs) that make Ueno so attractive. Shopping and dining possibilities are excellent and most of them are quite affordable too.

Recommended eats:

Isen Honten (井泉 本店 ): Known to be the oldest tonkatsu restaurant of Tokyo (since 1930), they still serve the most tender fried pork cutlet in a simple but cozy setting. Pescatarian options are available too 😉

Miuramisaki Kou (三浦三崎港 上野店): A tiny and unassuming sushi belt place that is very popular among locals, so it’s advisable to come before or after the most popular lunch/dinner hours. You get great quality sushi for an unbeatable price of 150 Yen per plate!

Kushikatsu Tanaka (串カツ田中 上野6丁目店): Izakaya that specializes into Kushikatsu – basically anything fried on a skewer. The big plus here is that it’s smoke free – still a rarity in most izakayas!

Big green spaces are lacking in Tokyo but Ueno Park is a welcome space for nice walks and taking a break from city life. Numerous shrines, a zoo and a bunch of museums can also be found there. It’s especially popular in the spring when the whole park is covered with cherry blossoms!

We were a little early to see the cherry blossom but found a great alternative: The plum blossom is the first sign of spring usually starting in late February/early March. Nearby temple Yushima Tenmangu held its annual plum blossom festival and people were out and about to enjoy the sunshine, some snacks and the pretty plum blossom! It was the unexpected highlight of our Tokyo trip!

Another reason why I like Ueno so much, is the proximity to other interesting neighbourhoods, especially Akihabara – the epicentre of electronics, toys and Manga/Anime culture! Personally, I could spend weeks there exploring all the different stores and most likely spend all my money on GachaGacha (capsule toys) 😀 From Ueno Station, Akihabara is only 2 stops away on the JR line or a 20 minute walk.

Also, Tokyo’s most famous observation tower, the Skytree is only a quick subway ride away. Two platforms at 350 and 450 meters give you a 360 degree panoramic view of the gigantic city!

Where to stay:

Ueno has abundant hotels, many of them in the mid- to budget price range. Some well rated ones include: Hotel Lifetree Ueno, Centurion Hotel & Spa Ueno and Sadou Hostel Tokyo Ueno.

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Further readings:

Okinawa in winter – an itinerary and guide